According to artistic director Jason Basmajian, Brioni [1], one of the
Italian suit makers of record, has shaved 15 years off of its
demographic. Under Basmajian, the house is headed in a more
youthful---though no less luxe---direction. It's no less tailored,
either. "We still believe in the three-piece," Basmajian said. Faith
in the suit is one of the big stories in Milan this season, but Brioni
is no fair-weather friend. They've been making them for generations.
The youth comes in courtesy of slimmer, shorter cuts that hew closer
to the body, and lighter constructions and fabrics. (Despite the Fall
season, many of the jackets are unlined.) The original Brioni man
might not have dreamed of wearing one of his suits with a denim shirt
and a knit tie, but the new one would. There are topcoats and car
coats the old fellow would recognize, and a new one, the jewel-toned
Foglia coat in deep purple double-faced cashmere, that maybe he
wouldn't. Brioni is betting that if you build it right---right to the
tune of 5,000 hand stitches per jacket, 80 percent of them hidden
invisibly on the inside---they will come. When you're talking about a
sporty suede hooded parka fully lined in mink, that pilgrimage starts
to look like a trip to Lourdes.
But luxury has a way of curdling if it's worn without some levity.
Brioni addressed the fact head-on with a presentation starring both
models and real men, chatting, playing poker, hanging out. They
included a handful of Italian businessmen, the spirits heir and
perfume-maker Kilian Hennessy, and Vegard Vik, chief of special
services for the Oslo police.
---Matthew Schneier
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Brioni
Links:
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[1] http://www.style.com/fashionshows/designerdirectory/BRION/seasons/
http://www.textileglobal.com/2012/01/brioni.html
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