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Milan Men's Fashion Week: Prada autumn/winter 2012
Gary Oldman, Adrien Brody and Jamie Bell were among A-list stars who took to the catwalk at Prada’s show, which focused on the theme of ‘man power’.
BY Luke Leitch |
16 January 2012
Gary Oldman reckoned his outfit – dominating magisterial black overcoat with insignia at the chest – was “a little bit count Dracula”.
Adrien Brody’s coat was a richly patterned scarlet number, with a two-toned furry collar. In it, he said, he acted the role of “an evil ruler – a dictator. I felt like there was a bit of ‘off with your head about him’.”
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Miuccia Prada would never be so unsophisticated to sprinkle her catwalk with Prada-clad Hollywood actors merely for the attention-attracting sake of it. So the inclusion of Oldman and Brody at the head of a cast that also included Willem Dafoe, Tim Roth and Jamie Bell – who confessed that (not quite) rubbing shoulders with professional models made him realise quite how short he is – was a piece of what Oldman called “two-minute theatre – a short blast of performance.”
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The stage was set in Prada’s cavernous concrete HQ, lit by neon chandeliers and floored by a 35-metre long modernist patterned shag-pile carpet. Across it strode models (real ones at first) wearing expressions that were variously shifty, haughty or sly in trench coats, grey suits, shoes with galoshes-style rubber attachments and shirts from which sprouted up-to-the-chin polo necks. It was a tailoring show. It was also, said Prada afterwards, “about elegance and powerful dressing. I was working on man power. So this was a palazzo of power… we started with this idea of a
mis-en-scene
of the people in the palace. Spies, any kind of people who are living in the palace of power.” And before you conclude that Prada is advocating dictator-dress next winter, she added: “Also for me it was a parody of man power. It was not ironic – it was nasty.”
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Prada declined to assign her cast any precise roles – “I am a fashion designer, I can do my analysis through my job” – but we’d venture that Oldman, Brody and the magnificently sneery Dafoe were the main power-players, while Roth – who gave a mafiosi shrug as he hit the carpet that sparked palazzo-wide applause – was the vicious lieutenant. “We wanted to have different people, younger and older, so it was natural that we wanted to have a few actors,” said Prada. “We asked more, we were not sure if they would say yes – but they all said yes! So we got incredible casting, like a movie.”
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Milan Men’s Fashion Week: Prada autumn/winter 2012
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