*All The More Power To You*
Feminism is a grass roots social, cultural, and political movement,
whose concern is with gender inequalities and equal rights for women.
Ms. Magazine, the voice of feminism for about 40 years, is addressing
the relationship between feminism and fashion with a feature in their
current issue, If the Clothes Fit - A Feminist Takes On Fashion which
deals with the social pressure historically put on women's
appearances, the physical scrutiny and significance of their dress and
grooming habits (especially in the work place), and the pressure on
women to be fashionable. The author, Minh-Ha. T. Pham, is an assistant
professor in the History of Art & Visual Studies department and Asian
American Studies program at Cornell University, a co-author of the
blog Threadbared [1], and also curates the blog Of Another
Fashion [2] . An excerpt from the article went live the other day:
http://msmagazine.com/blog/blog/2012/01/17/if-the-clothes-fit-a-feminist-takes-on-fashion/
[3] . Among her observations: fashion, like so many other things
associated primarily with women, may be dismissed as trivial, but it
shapes how we're viewed by others, especially on the levels of
gender, class and race. In turn, how we're read determines how we
are treated, especially in the workforce — whether we are hired,
promoted and respected, and how well we are paid. That most ordinary
and intimate of acts, getting dressed, has very real political and
economic consequences. If feminists ignore fashion, we are ceding our
power to influence it. Fortunately, history has shown that feminists
can, instead, harness fashion and use it for our own political
purposes.
Okay, first, let me just say that if a woman wants to wear hooker
shoes, that's her choice. If she is only buying them because she is
being told they are the height of fashion, she should have her head
examined. I have said before teetering on shoes you can't walk in
without holding onto your companion is just plain stupid and
unattractive. There is nothing modern or chic about that. There are as
many great looking flats and low heels as there are mile high
stilettos, and not every designer or shoe company proposes only
ridiculously high high heels. Secondly, it is not just women who are
being pre-judged based on their appearance --- men too. Everyone is
under the same scrutiny; it is simply human nature.
That said, I would go a step further and suggest that fashion IS the
essence of feminism and, when used properly, it can be the ultimate
feminist tool. What is more feminist than something that empowers
women? What is more empowering than the confidence that comes from
knowing you have what it takes to look and feel your best regardless
of the occasion or situation? Informed, smart, clothing choices,
especially those things that not only look good but are practical and
functional, have the power to do just that.
Clothing is not only required by law (well, in most places anyway),
but it's a necessity: protective against the elements, it has the
ability to enhance, camouflage and hide those things we want to hide
(it's quicker, easier and less painful than plastic surgery though
admittedly, not always less costly - LOL). It allows for self
expression and let's us be whomever we want, whenever we want. Women
wear many hats these days and we have to be quick change artists. When
you know you are properly and appropriately turned out, it frees your
mind and allows you to get on with life and focus on the more
important things at hand.
Sure, if the obsession with clothes and fashion, and all things
superficial, spirals out of control, or if it is a dangerously
expensive addiction that gets in the way of living a normal life, that
is not good or healthy. Luckily, this could not be a better time for
fashion and feminism. Fashion is completely democratic and readily
accessible at all price points; it's simply ridiculous to suggest one
need to break the bank to look great. And only a fool would think they
have to buy new things every season or blindly follow trends. Having
style has nothing to do with any of that. It's about freedom of
expression and freedom of choice, and being true to who you are.
As for dress codes, they basically don't exist anymore and unless you
are working in a corporate environment, there is a wide range of ways
in which to dress. Traditional sexual stereotypes and roles (along
with age old conventions and mores) have been completely challenged
and all but broken down. There is a continuing blurring of the line
between what is considered traditionally male and traditionally female
and, in fact, some of the best pieces each season are completely
unisex.
The idea that fashion design is the bi-product of men objectifying
women to fulfill their own fantasies is old and passe and could not be
further from the truth (though if you want to be objectified, you can
do that - it's your choice so go for it!) Just think about designers
like Nicolas Guesquiere, Raf Simons, Rick Owens, Francisco Costa,
Ralph Rucci, Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Oliver Theyskens, Helmut
Lang, Christopher Bailey, Dries Van Noten among others, who
consistently address the needs of smart, chic, modern women without
ever degrading or objectifying them. Speaking of which, where would we
be without the late, great Yves Saint Laurent who shocked the world
when he put women in pantsuits, tuxedos, pea jackets and trench coats?
And while women designers may still be outnumbered by the guys, they
have been and will continue to be major design forces, who understand
first hand, what women need and want.
Where to begin? How about with Coco Chanel, perhaps the greatest
designer of all time and a true feminist. She broke the rules and
bended tradition with her menswear inspired designs which were meant
to be freeing, easy, and comfortable, not to mention truly chic. The
names of other revered innovators both past and present: Miuccia Prada
and Elsa Schiaparelli, (both of whom will be honored by the
Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute in their upcoming
blockbuster spring exhibition, Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible
Conversations, May 10 through August 19, 2012), Phoebe Philo, Mme.
Gres, Claire McCardell, Donna Karan (she gave us 8 easy pieces and a
system for dressing that was modern and highly practical), Bonnie
Cashin (the essence of practicality with those amazing pockets),
Isabel Toledo, Anne Klein, Norma Kamali, Yeohlee, Maria Cornejo, and
Diane von Furstenberg. By the way, the work of many of the
aforementioned names (both men and women) will be included in Impact:
50 Years of the CFDA, an exhibition at the Museum at FIT, February 10
- April 17, 2012, www.fitnyc.edu/museum [4] .
Finally, as for the notion that fashion should be dismissed as
something frivolous and superficial, let me just say that I always
loved fashion and knew early on that I wanted to be a fashion editor.
Upon graduation from George Washington University with a B.A. in art
history/sociology, I returned to New York to fulfill my dream. After
working at Harper's Bazaar as an assistant fashion editor for a little
while, I began to wonder if I was wasting my college education and
started to feel as though I had to make excuses for pursuing such a
'frivolous' career. I even thought about taking the law boards
(truly!). Then I had an epiphany of sorts and realized I did not want
to go back to school for at least 4 more years, and really began to
apply myself. I found my true calling. But perhaps what really says it
all for me is Bill Cunningham. At the very end of the movie, Bill
Cunningham, New York, he rejects the notion that fashion is mere
frivolity with his observation that "Fashion is the armor to survive
the reality of everyday life." I couldn't have said it better.
Labels: Feminism and Fashion
Read the rest here:
"On Feminism & Fashion" - by Marilyn Kirschner
Links:
------
[1] http://iheartthreadbared.wordpress.com/tag/style-blog
[2] http://ofanotherfashion.tumblr.com/
[3] http://msmagazine.com/blog/blog/2012/01/17/if-the-clothes-fit-a-feminist-takes-on-fashion/
[4] http://www.fitnyc.edu/museum
http://www.textileglobal.com/2012/01/on-feminism-fashion-by-marilyn-kirschner.html
________________________________________________________
You have subscribed to these e-mail notices about new posts to the blog.
If you want to change your settings or unsubscribe, please visit:
?code=32d76605516c3df7bc6dfc008bab47bd&addr=jihsin.news%40blogger.com&
0 意見:
Post a Comment