Carpet bags, cocktail jackets and floral suits added a dandy flourish
to Gucci's autumn/winter catwalk at Milan fashion week
"These are tormented poets with an effortless attitude when it comes
to mixing and creating personal style," says Gucci creative director
Frida Giannini of her menswear autumn/winter 2012 collection, which
was shown yesterday in Milan. "Fabrics that allude to the 19th
century, softly oversized pieces, shirts with a dandy hint, and the
nonchalance of a newly-arrived young Hollywood actor."
The show notes also referenced "Visconti grunge", Caravaggio paintings
and Leonardo DiCaprio in Total Eclipse [1].
On the catwalk, this translated to the Gucci boy, with his amazing
hair, swaggering in a jumbo cardigan over a suit jacket, a short naval
jacket with gold buttons or perhaps a sharp double-breasted blazer. A
subtle rose print featured on suits, while splashes of peacock green
and rich red added an extra decadent splash – the latter was
particularly lovely on a cable jumper.
This season's accessories, a key part of the Gucci business [2], are
riding boots – a look Giannini herself is a big fan of – alongside
exotic skin briefcases or suitcases. Though best of all were the large
tapestry carpet bags – Mary Poppins goes rock star.
For night, and if ever there was a label that does justice to fancy
cocktail attire then it's Gucci, there were velvet jackets with an air
of expensive flocked wallpaper. Floral corsages were attached to
dinner suits to add a flourish. Trenches and blazers had been given
the lasercut ponyskin remix.
The cocktail jacket might not be top of most men's shopping lists,
especially when they cost this kind of luxury label money, but in
Milan there is definitely a lot of love going down for the evening
blazer. At Alexander McQueen's presentation yesterday, there were
several statement cocktail jackets of note. Expect these pieces to be
coming to a red carpet near you very soon.
Gucci [3] Men's fashion [4] Milan fashion week [5] Fashion weeks [6]
Simon Chilvers [7]
guardian.co.uk [8]
Links:
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[1] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Total_Eclipse_%28film%29
[2] http://www.guardian.co.uk/fashion/2011/sep/26/story-of-gucci
[3] http://www.guardian.co.uk/fashion/gucci
[4] http://www.guardian.co.uk/fashion/mens-fashion
[5] http://www.guardian.co.uk/fashion/milan-fashion-week
[6] http://www.guardian.co.uk/fashion/fashion-weeks
[7] http://www.guardian.co.uk/profile/simonchilvers
[8] http://www.guardian.co.uk
http://www.textileglobal.com/2012/01/guccis-tormented-poets.html
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