"Work," said Junya Watanabe [1], with a double fist-pump for emphasis,
after a show whose theme seemed to be just that. There were tractors,
trains, and diggers on the invitation, farmers and engineers on the
catwalk. At a moment when there are so many men out of work, you could
think Junya was making a statement about the dignity of labor. Or
maybe this was his elegy for a prelapsarian era of full employment.
There was, after all, something nostalgic about the look of patched
plaid shirts, bib-front overalls, and work pants hanging off big
suspenders, just as there is something old-school about tractors in
the age of agribusiness. But the look harked back to Junya's Spring
collection in the garden. The topstitched trousers with rolled cuffs
and the blanket-check paneling on shirt jackets also echoed the show
before that, the one set in a city park. Junya used to favor more edge
with his menswear (his Travis-Bickle-at-Woodstock collection will
always be one of the great men's presentations of the aughts). Perhaps
it's now a case of him settling into a gentle groove where he can make
his own bucolic stand against the predations of modern times. But the
groove is a little too gentle. We could hope for more spirit from a
man who, on the evidence of that perpetual smile, at least, has
clearly had the good fortune to turn his work into play.
---Tim Blanks
See the article here:
Junya Watanabe
Links:
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[1] http://www.style.com/fashionshows/designerdirectory/JNWATNBE/seasons/
http://www.textileglobal.com/2012/01/junya-watanabe.html
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