Men's fashion takes the lead on the catwalks of Milan and at
Fortezza da Basso in Florence, for the 81st edition of Pitti Uomo. The
economic crisis has brought a much more serious air to fashion week,
with fewer events and less glamour around.
Perhaps because of the cold weather, on Saturday and Sunday in Milan,
the roads were less crowded and the traffic less intense. A fashion
week also characterised by 'ready-to-war' from France and Italy,
to quote an expression used by the fashion editor of the International
Herald Tribune, Suzy Menkes. And, following the example of Bulgari,
Moncler, Fendi, Emilio Pucci, Bottega Veneta and Gucci, even Brioni is
speaking French these days, now that the brand is officially
controlled by Ppr. *Financial data for the sector*
According to estimates by Sistema moda Italia, in the final part of
2011 Italian men's fashion showed positive outcomes again, after
three years of negative results. 2011 should go down as having an
increase in turnover of +3.4%, equivalent to just under 8.4 billion
Euros.
However the data from Sistema moda Italia has highlighted the fact
that the dynamics of Italian production show a serious deterioration
and should bring about a downturn of 8.9% annually: caused in part by
a decisive increase in import values because of an increase in the
price of raw materials. According to Raffaello Napoleone, managing
director of Pitti Immagine, "we must have no illusions about our
country." He adds: "The situation is serious. Consumption is at a
minimum and retailers are really struggling, often having to delay
payments and some being forced to close."
*Pitti*
Newly returned to the fair in Florence is Valentino. The collection,
designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, is classic
with trousers with well defined pleats, suits and dinner jackets.
Also returning to Pitti, with 1100 exhibitors, was Napapijri. "Italy
is the second market after Germany which is why we have decided to
come back here", reported Fashion United Andrea Cannelloni, vice
president and general manager of Napapijri.
As for influx to the Florence fair, foreign visitors from abroad
should number about 7,400, with about 13,600 from Italy. Germany,
Japan, Great Britain, United States, China, South Korea and Turkey
were leading demand and compensating for some significant falls, such
as that of Spain, with almost 200 fewer buyers, as well as Greece and
Portugal.
*Milan fashion week*
From Pitti stands, to the catwalks of Milan and the stands of White
where, apart from men's fashion, the main feature was art. Perhaps
as an alternative to the car and the high price of petrol, much
inspiration came from bicycles. Also, there was a lot of knitwear: the
soft and colourful capsule collection by Nick Wooster for Drumohr, for
example.
On the catwalks of Milan Fashion Week, with a total of 38 parades, the
jacket and a sense of irony were the winners.
The Burberry Prorsum show was closed by models and a rainbow of
umbrellas.
Prada showcased the most glamorous parade. Adrien Brody, Jamie Bell,
Willem Dafoe, Tim Roth, Gary Oldman, Emile Hirsch, Garrett Hedlund,
and the twins Alexandre and Victor Carril gave life to a parody of the
wardrobe of a high ranking official.
Emporio Armani has gone back to the duffle coat, while Ermanno
Scervino triumphed with boiled wool with stretch, for jackets and
tightly fitting but soft coats.
From our correspondent in Milan
Photo small: Emporio Armani Autumn/Winter 2012-2013
Photo big: Ermanno Scervino and Prada Autumn/Winter 2012-2013
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Click here [1] for more videos of MFW.
Read more here:
MFW: serious and ironic men's fashion
Links:
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[1] http://www.fashionunited.com/my/fashion-videos?lang=en
http://www.textileglobal.com/2012/01/mfw-serious-and-ironic-men%e2%80%99s-fashion.html
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