Miharayasuhiro

A new Post "Miharayasuhiro" was written on the January 23, 2012 at 2:32 am on "Textile Global - Textile and Fashion News".

If Miharayasuhiro [1]'s Spring collection was a downbeat reflection of
the shock and uncertainty of post-tsunami Japan, his Fall show put him
back on track as one of the most enlightening, uplifting designers on
the Paris menswear schedule. It was remarkable that Mihara could do
this without compromising a scintilla of the thought-provoking process
he'd employed when he was coming to grips with Japan's tragedy. But
his signature combines the cerebral and the sensual to a degree that
is rare in fashion. Where there is light, there is dark in his work.
And vice versa.

It was a similar fundamental opposition---insider-outsider---that
defined Mihara's new collection. The way he sees it, the information
flow is such that everyone around the world understands each other's
cultures. They're the insiders, moving and changing with technology.
The people who live outside this informational fast track are doomed
to be old-fashioned. That means the glamorous gloss that Hollywood
rebels like James Dean and Steve McQueen gave to outsider status has
evaporated.

It was a typically complicated Mihara rationale for a collection that
otherwise communicated its split personality with immediacy and charm.
The military influence that is major for Fall has always been part of
this designer's repertoire, but, given Japan's especially conflicted
relationship with militarism, it was a revelation to see how Mihara
dealt with it this season. Struck by the way in which camo patterns
resembled the clouds in traditional Japanese iconography, he had
camouflage-pattern suits woven from kimono silk, using a technique
over a thousand years old. And there was real gold thread in the weave
to make it something precious, as a way of reversing camo's martial
connotations.

Reversal---inside-outside---was the idea behind the army green lining
on a checked waistcoat, a navy trench, and a gray flannel parka. When
the cuffs on a navy peacoat were rolled back, they revealed beautiful
traditional embroidery. Mihara said he wanted to convey the notion
that what was uniform on the outside was free inside---like the
checked combat suits, a little bit dandy. The parka-poncho and flight
jacket-poncho hybrids were the kind of winning tricks that Mihara has
pulled off effortlessly in the past.

The show's soundtrack was provided live by "samurai guitarist" Miyavi.
That was in keeping with Mihara's commitment to highlighting Japanese
artistry, whether as traditional as Hosoo's kimono silks or as modern
as Miyavi's sonic bombs. This designer is clearly a cultural
touchstone.
---Tim Blanks

See original here:
Miharayasuhiro

Links:
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[1] http://www.style.com/fashionshows/designerdirectory/MIHAMEN/seasons/

http://www.textileglobal.com/2012/01/miharayasuhiro.html

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