Raf Simons [1] says he used to be very critical of menswear, but now
he finds himself really appreciating the work of his peers, even
buying some of it. Except, he adds, it just doesn't give him any
energy. For that, he'd have to look to the collection he showed
tonight, which celebrated, in his own words, "change, energy, freedom,
protection." That last one came from the feeling Raf gets every few
years that it's time to return to the youth-cult well that has
refreshed him from the very beginning of his career. The boys whose
idealism has shaped his fashion sensibility make him feel protective.
And, with this particular collection, they've revived his own idealism
after a trying period in his business. Like the show's title---Run
Fall Run---implied, you run, you fall, you get up, you keep going. And
keeping going had, Raf claimed, freed him.
What he showed certainly had reminders of the time before he was "Raf
Simons." Like the schoolboy-ness of the shorts, or the gawkiness of
the models in clothes whose outsize proportions suggested something
that could be grown into. It was also there in the veils of hair
trailing across faces, which reminded hairdresser Guido Palau of work
he did with Raf more than a decade ago. Still, the collection was an
entirely contemporary manifesto, matching the approachable style of
the street (the oversize outerwear, for instance, or the ombr
Links:
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[1] http://www.style.com/fashionshows/designerdirectory/RSIMONS/seasons/
http://www.textileglobal.com/2012/01/raf-simons.html
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